Boissy-aux-CaillesBoissy-aux-Cailles is a relatively undisturbed beauty-spot on the metaphorical face forming the sites that dwell within the Forest of Fontainebleau. The rock resides in heavily wooded areas across two main sites, both lovely walks over fields from the cemetery on the edge of Boissy. It obviously receives some traffic as there are a few boulders scattered about that have been developed for climbing and is also well publicised in a couple of forest guidebooks. On a pretty-close-to-perfect day, however, it was ours and ours alone...well, almost. We could hear all different birds chatting in the trees, although no quails for which the area is named; the small, mottled smooth pebbles that are conglomerated within the sandstone resemble quail eggs. A small herd of large deer scattered before us as we walked through the woods. Most charismatic of our encounters was with a small bird, later identified as a goldcrest, that flittered about the rock we were climbing. It didn't seem to mind us as we climbed, but when we stayed motionless for a moment it alighted on the finish holds to pose for a few pictures.
Gorge aux Châts
The cold yellow evening turned out a stunner. After a few drops, Sam latched the crucial hold on Rubis, and we both went on to send another uber-classic, Travaux Forces (6b). The problem traverses a line of sharp crimps up an overhang, finishing on a twist into a glory jug. C'était super. Sam on top of Rubis sur l'Ongle (7b+), somewhat surprised but definitely relieved. Once the elation following our ascents had settled we basked in the sunset. I know right, sickening, but sorry to say, it happened. It was lush. We absorbed the last rays of warmth on an otherwise chilly evening, but once the light faded and the sun was all but gone... ...twilight bouldering! Amber decided to get on the awesome Sa Pelle au Logis (7a). Unfortunately the light had dissipated just a little too much to see things such as key foot placements and where the finishing holds were. Despite this she made it look pretty effortless and flew through the whole route up to the last couple of holds about four times before conceding defeat. Once again, we will return...(sensing a pattern here?!) Bas CuvierA random decision to head out to Cuvier turned into a quick session on the Abbatoir / Carnage / Bérézina bloc. Not much to write about really, Sam worked the moves for about 30 minutes then climbed Bérézina-Carnage (7c+), Amber figured out she could kick a branch about a foot above her head, we went home. And of course... Here's the photo of Amber kicking that branch (gently). Restant du Long RocherRestant du Long Rocher is another site a bit off the broken track, a sprawling field of asteroid boulders, sandstone endowed with curious pockets full of friction and occasionally spiders. The pockets are a bit of a novelty in Font, more reminiscent of Frankenjura, both in climbing style and tweakiness for the fingers. We didn't get much further than these pock-marked beauties, so couldn't say whether they form the pattern for the massif as a whole, but one can only hope... We smashed out Vigipirate (pictured above) and Pandams droite (below), both 7a and quite different in style, the former bunched and full of options, all of them worse than they look, and the latter featuring specific, long, twisting moves to exit through La Vigie, a delightful 6a+ sitter. The problems aren't all of a kind; backing onto this boulder is a tall, leaning face that bears three routes. The middle problem is a nice 6b, Entre les Flèches (pictured bottom), stiff if laybacking isn't your game. Overall, fun climbing and a lovely, tranquil spot for a Sunday afternoon.
3 Comments
Strongman
20/3/2016 08:45:25 pm
Great stuff guys, cool pics and very jealous! Amber nice to see you pushing boundaries, the ticks are coming! Sam time to stop showboating and go next level!!
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Samber
21/3/2016 12:42:08 pm
Thank yoooouu :) come out and join?!! Yeah, Sam's pratting about on 7c's still, don't know what he's playing at :P are you getting out much? Rain stopped in Kernow enough for some Carn Brea time?
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Strongman
22/3/2016 10:37:08 am
Weather has been perfect, but work has been stacked, so unfortunately only time for one Carn Brea session. It was great to get out and had a fun session, but it also made me sad that I was not getting out more!! You guys will just have to keep cranking for team Kernow!! Leave a Reply. |