This Sunday Send is more of a Sunday Sends. When we met up with Jonny Kydd at Dinas Rock to check out an 8a he had his eye on, we didn't realise he would climb that as well as a 7a, two 7b+'s and two 7c's. And a 5+. Here's Jonny's account of the day...
"Arriving at Dinas Rock I was met with an amazingly clear blue sky, despite the rest of the country being covered in fog. After the short walk in to the Kennelgarth wall I started warming up with a couple of laps on Byte Size (5+) and then moved on to Shamu (7b+), a longer and harder traverse, to get a bit of a pump going. I had previously climbed the start section (as the Kennelgarth wall is full of linkups!) so thought it was best to try the end before pulling on at the start and getting pumped without a clue what I had to do. This was a good idea, as after figuring out the end moves I topped it on my first go from the start.
"Next up was something with a few harder moves, and a lot less pumpy! I decided to try Made By Magic (7c), this problem traverses from the left on good enough holds before pulling hard on a few crimps to reach the jug at the top. I had previously done the crux moves before for a different problem but was still aware that that there was no guarantee that I would be able to get myself up it. I almost stuck the crux on my first attempt and was surprised as I had previously struggled a lot with this move; two more attempts and the deed was done.
"I now felt as if I had fully warmed up and was ready to go and attempt Jed Black (8a), the main project for the day. This problem is situated at the Main Crag and consists of two hard start moves before getting into sustained compression moves on a very overhung wall, finishing off up a crimpy flat section with poor footholds before reaching the finishing jug. I had previously tried the problem in the summer without success so I decided to try the stand start, Jet Blue (7c), which to my shock went first go as I had previously struggled to link the top section with the compression section. This now meant that it was time to do the sit start.
"In the first few attempts I had managed to get into the compression section but could not make the transition into the final section, so decided to have a bit of flapjack and give it another burn in 5 minutes. This worked a treat and on the next attempt I found myself at the top and had completed my second 8a, happy days! I still felt as though I had a bit more energy left to burn so decided to try Awesome Shed Direct (7b+), this was a good decision as I managed to get to the top, finishing off a great day."
For Jonny's film work, and more of his impressive bouldering, check out his YouTube channel. Total crusher!
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